The cobblestone streets of Bogota, Colombia are just begging to be photographed. With the winding stretches of colorful houses constantly competing with a stunning blue sky, I found my eyes darting up side streets and around corners, soaking in the city’s charm and ignoring the uneven stones that dared me not to trip. Bogota is beautiful.
But Is Bogota really safe?
“You shouldn’t have that out,” my new French friend remarked with a sideways glance at my camera.
I made every effort not to roll my eyes while tucking it back into my bag.
“I need to take pictures.”
She didn’t need to tell me again. She knew I’d take it back out, as soon as a new colored house emerged, completing the rainbow of our walk through La Candelaria, the historical district of Bogota that has become the most popular neighborhood for backpackers.
Setting my blatant frustration aside, I will concede that my French friend was right. This area, although home to most hostels in Bogota and much improved in recent years, is known for pickpockets and thieves. Talk to anyone who has spent some time in the area and they’ve likely got a story to share about armed theft — laptops and cameras full of valuable memories, money, and passports that have fallen victim to Bogota’s resilient crime. I tried to consider the telephone effect of each of these stories — likely passed along a string of backpackers before I heard them. Then an Argentinian girl returned to our hostel one afternoon with a surprisingly calm report of being robbed by a man with a knife, just outside our hostel that afternoon. He took all of her money and her passport. She smiled and shrugged, struggling to find the English words. “I need to find embassy to get new passport.”
Embassy?? Passport?? The only word repeating itself endlessly in my head was Knife.
I only spent three days in Bogota before my frustration with the unfortunate limitations that do arise when traveling solo convinced me to book a bus to Medellin. I just couldn’t stay in a place that forced me to rely on the company of others, just to leave my hostel. I like to explore on my own and snap endless streams of pictures. I like to get lost and find my way in a new place. For me, these were not reasonable options here.
Now let me clarify that I do want to experience all types of places in my travels. I want to exit my comfort zone and expand upon it. I want to make myself vulnerable to the unfamiliar. But I also need to feel safe. I don’t want to dissuade other solo females from exploring Bogota. It truly is a beautiful city with fascinating history and culture to explore. Not to mention the countless little Panaderias selling scrumptious empanadas, tomales, and THIS…
Would you like some queso with your fruit salad? How about a whole lot of it? Yes… yes i would.
My stomach gets a substantial say in my assessment of new locations, but overall, Bogota simply did not fit the style in which I like to travel, and the sense of security I prefer to maintain for the start of my trip.
There is plenty that I missed out on by leaving so quickly, and I will return to see all of that. (My flight leaves from Bogota so I actually have no choice!) In the meantime, I’m enjoying a city that feels right to me. Today I explored areas of Medellin that were completely void of tourists and English speakers and I felt completely at ease. I carried my camera and took lots of pictures (coming soon). I got lost. I ordered food from a street vendor without having the slightest idea what I’d consume. I talked to strangers. I felt safe. Granted, bad things can happen everywhere, and I’ll continue to be careful. But I know that leaving Bogota early was the right decision for me.
Despite the constant scolding of Colombians and tourists alike, I did manage to sneak out my camera and capture some of La Candelaria before bidding Bogota farewell. Here is a brief glimpse of a growing and evolving city that I hope to see more of someday…
Plaza de Bolivar
The Primary Cathedral of Bogota in Plaza de Bolivar
They really love their Christmas decorations in Bogota, which I’m totally on board with.
sorry to hear it didn’t work out in bogota, but it sounds like you made the right choice. (though the queso fruit salad sitch probs would have been hard for us to leave).
the lazy travelers recently posted..the lazy travelers take europe: the romantic’s highlights
Oh yes – it was a little heartbreaking. But I made sure to have my fill before heading out!
Britany Robinson recently posted..Why I Bailed on Bogota
Sounds to me that you made a good choice because traveling in unfamiliar places
Love, me
while fun and exciting, can be a horrific nightmare if some harm comes to you.
Always remember one thing… “Things” can be replaced, may not be the easiest
thing in the world but they can be replaced. Just don’t let any harm come to you,
cuz YOU are the most important “non-thing” “other thing” (ok Writer Lady, fill in the word…… …”YOU are the most important “______________” in the world.”). in the world……
(I am a PITA aren’t I? Tee hee!)
I’m being very careful about myself and my things – promise!
Sometimes it’s better to bail on one place and find yourself in an even better place. I had quite a few problems in Central American and European cities and many of them sent me running for the coast… where I got some of the best waves of my life. Keep running.
Noah recently posted..Free Tickets to Beer Bourbon BBQ Festival
Totally agree. Not running for now as I’ll be staying in Medellin for the next month but after that I’ll be exploring the rest of Colombia!
Britany Robinson recently posted..Why I Bailed on Bogota
Wow, looks a lot like Granada, Nicaragua, which also had me feeling very “unsafe”. Wouldn’t change visiting it for the world but *whew, was I uncomfortable. But, moving on! You have lots to discover. Keep posting and enjoy the ride!!
Yeah I’m definitely glad I was there and I really do want to check it out more. There’s just a way to travel in the types of places that might make you feel uncomfortable and I wasn’t ready to travel that way at the beginning of my trip! Thanks for reading, Jill!
Britany Robinson recently posted..Why I Bailed on Bogota
I know the feeling. I lived in Nairobi for a year and I have almost no photos of places inside the city. The ones I do have were clandestinely taken with my iPhone and aren’t that great. Not taking more photos is one of my biggest regrets about my time there, because it’s so much harder to convey my stories about the city without photos and because it reinforces the fear and stereotypes that exist about traveling or living in places that are dangerous.
I knew though, that every time I took my camera, especially in downtown, I would have instantly become more of a target. I knew far too many people (Kenyans and Westerners alike) over the course of my time living there who were mugged, carjacked or victims of less violent crimes and I didn’t want to increase my risk more than necessary. I know that sounds callous in a way, but I found that over the entire time I lived there, I was constantly on edge, trying to strike a balance between what I knew were very real safety risks and the desire to truly experience the city.
Sara recently posted..The Grass is Always Greener: To Travel or Settle Down?
Its tough when you have a really strong desire to experience a place that puts you completely out of your comfort zone. I have a feeling Bogota will seem like a nursery school after I make it to some locations in South America. Part of travel is learning how to handle all sorts of places. I just wasn’t ready to do THAT kind of travel and I’m glad I made the decision not to at this point. Thanks for reading!!
Britany Robinson recently posted..Why I Bailed on Bogota
I think this was a really smart move on your part. I read somewhere that we are often hyper-aware of our surroundings, we notice on a subconscious level changes in patterns that indicate danger, and that’s what makes us uncomfortable. Changing your plans is a hassle, but my guess is you avoided something bad by listening to your intuition! Can’t wait to read more about your South American adventures.
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I definitely agree with going with one’s gut. It felt right to leave, and hopefully it will feel right to return eventually!
Britany Robinson recently posted..1 Bus Ride and 740 Steps to the Top of “La Piedra”
Oh, so sad to hear you didn’t get the good vibes while here in the Bog. When you pass through again let me know, would love to show you some of my fav places.
Have fun in Medellín. xo
I’ll definitely be back to Bogota. And I’m sure with the guidance of someone that’s familiar with the area, I’ll like it a lot more!
It’s human nature to want to feel safe no matter how much you want to put you comfort zone. You did the right thing in moving on. I’m thoroughly enjoying reading of your trip so far. Sounds amazing. I can’t wait to read more.
Thanks for reading, Elliot! Lots more to come!
I’ll be traveling solo through South America in the fall, and I’m a little nervous to go to some places. Not in the crazy way that some people have reacted when I say I want to go there on my own, but it’s certainly going to be different than traveling through Europe. I’ll be going to Bogota, but I know I’ll have to be careful.
This is also the second blog that I read recently that raved about Medellin, I’m super excited for it!
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That’s great, I’m sure you’ll love South America and you’ll probably like Bogota too. As long as you’re always aware of your surroundings and don’t go out alone after dark, it’s a very nice city to explore. But yes, I do like Medellin a whole lot better!
Your mom thinks you made the best decision. Your photos are beautiful though and would make anyone curious to visit the city. But first and foremost….stay safe. Love you.
Thanks Mom! Staying safe, promise
Britany Robinson recently posted..1 Bus Ride and 740 Steps to the Top of “La Piedra”
Thanks for the heads up, I’ll be going to colombia next year so atleast I’ll know to be careful in advance. Can you reccomend any awesome towns in the country that I should check out while I’m there? Did you go to San Gil?
Ally recently posted..Why I want to do my semester abroad in Mexico
Hey Britany! I came here after you left a comment on my post about wondering what to do in Colombia! Hmm…I was actually wondering about the whole taking photos thing. Eurgh, how annoying. How comfortable do you feel snapping pictures of things in Medellin?
I guess I won’t know how I feel about Bogota until I get there – I’ll be there at the very beginning and very end of my month in Colombia. You’re right to listen to your intuition, as well. If you don’t feel safe, then don’t stay there and, if your itinerary allows it, if you love a place, then stay longer!
Tom @ Waegook Tom recently posted..Foodporn NZ: Auckland Budget Restaurants
Hey Tom! Thanks for visiting:) Honestly, I felt super uncomfortable in Bogota with taking out my camera and completely at ease about it here. I actually handed a stranger my iphone today to take a pic of me in Medellin and didn’t think twice about it. (Until after the fact when I was like hmmm… was that dumb?) I have a feeling I didn’t see the good side of Bogota that I’m sure does exist… but so far, Medellin is definitely my preference.
i did a bike tour in bogota and it was great! learned a lot about the city. and saw a lot too. http://backpackerreport.com/2013/03/18/bogota-2-wheels/
Steve recently posted..5 Natural Wonders No One Talks About
if you’ve got time, the salt cathedral is pretty sweet too http://backpackerreport.com/2013/03/20/cathedral-salt/
Steve recently posted..5 Natural Wonders No One Talks About